At Home in the Curry Kitchen | Sri Lanka

I’ve stayed in many homestays all over the world, some fairly basic and some that felt more like I was staying in a hotel. In Sri Lanka however, I was treated as a welcome houseguest throughout my stay at this beautiful colonial residence belonging to a family who had called it home for generations. On arrival, I immediately felt relaxed and at ease. Suzy, my my smiling host, greeted me with a refreshing mango juice so fresh it was unlike any I had ever tasted before.

The homestay was located high up in the hills that surround Kandy’s city centre. My room, one of just four, had two large comfortable double beds with beautiful wall hangings and a basic, yet huge, bathroom, complete with walk-in shower. There was a little bar inside the garden shed which they open up when more guests are staying – just me on this occasion though! As I wandered freely around the grounds, the dad chatted to me about his life and his children who were living away. I think he really missed them as he properly took me under his wing. He explained the different plants to me and showed me all the unusual types of fruit and vegetables that they grow themselves on their terraces. Talk about fresh! Later that evening I was treated to a delicious home cooked dinner of green jackfruit curry (Polos) in the moonlit garden.

After a great night’s sleep, free from blasting tuk-tuk horns, I was accompanied on a walk to a local village. We left early (7 am!) before it got too hot. I dread to think how hot it might have been had we gone any later! Luckily I was able to cool my feet in a river and it was nice to watch the curious locals pass by with a wave and a smile – clearly they knew my escort well. Inquisitive and friendly, the burning question on everyone’s lips was “first time to Sri Lanka?”, swiftly followed by “is it a beautiful country?”.

Beautiful surroundings

We visited the peaceful village temple and saw monkeys swinging through the surrounding tropical plantations. The scenery was utterly spectacular, with crowing roosters and huge water buffalo tied up after their early morning shift. As I followed my smiling guide through the village I felt like a celebrity, giggling children all wearing their satchels waved as they passed me on their way to school.

After breakfast, I took a tuk-tuk ride down to the fresh produce market for the supplies that they didn’t grow on home turf and some lovely fresh Seer fish. Then it was time to get my hands dirty… I could have just watched, had I preferred, but to be honest I couldn’t wait to get stuck in and learn some cooking skills to take home with me.

I made the Seer fish curry with my bare hands, closely scrutinised by the perfectionist cook and aided by English instructions from Suzy. We took our time over cooking it on the wood burning stove cut into the wall. Wonderfully relaxing, I’m convinced that this must be the essential ingredient as it never tastes quite as good cooked at home…or maybe I’m just missing the tropical, fresh ingredients! The most satisfying part of my cooking experience was making the Coconut Sambol, a staple condiment of any Sri Lankan meal time spread. It’s a shame I can’t precisely replicate this here as Brighton is a little short on coconut trees, but I do my best… When it came to the tasting I really couldn’t believe that I had produced such a mouth-watering meal. I’m proud to say I still impress my friends to this day with that very recipe!

Later we made fried sugar snacks which washed down a treat with their home grown tea; a Sri Lankan take on afternoon tea.

Sadly the next morning after another relaxing night’s sleep, it was time to wave my new found Sri Lankan family goodbye!