Vietnam with the kids: Jo’s family holiday

Stepping off the plane and into the heat, humidity and bustle of Hanoi was a big culture shock for our family. But we soon got into the swing of things as we explored the streets near our central hotel; captivated by the mopeds as they hooted and weaved past us.

On the second day, we met our local guide who taught us our first Vietnamese words (“xin chào” is “hello”) and showed us how to cross the busy roads. This involved stepping out into the throng and trusting the riders to avoid us! What seemed like chaos at first sight, was in fact a harmonious system of patience, trust and intuition. And somehow it worked perfectly.

We visited Hanoi’s Old Quarter, where artisans have built their trade and it was fun for the kids to walk down each of the ‘36 Streets’ whilst guessing its speciality, from brass to kitchenware to bamboo.

Next, we ventured to Bai Tu Long Bay; Halong Bay’s less crowded (but equally beautiful) neighbour. We spent a night on a traditional junk boat as it sailed between jungle-topped islands and sandy coves. Our favourite moment was hopping into a kayak and paddling across the emerald sea.

After a short flight from Hanoi, we found ourselves on the banks of the Perfume River in Hue. We joined our guide as we cycled into the peaceful countryside of rice paddies and water buffalo. We peddled past harvested rice drying in the sun and even had a go at catching fish with traditional river nets.

At lunchtime, we got a masterclass in Vietnamese cooking, making Bánh xèo which means “sizzling pancake,” followed by more dishes and some of the best food we’d eaten on our trip!

We chose to travel by train from Hue to our next destination of Hoi An. This couldn’t have been easier as we were taken from A to B and armed with our tickets in advance. We loved watching the coastline pass by the left windows and the impenetrable jungle to the right.

Our next hotel was a luxurious resort on the beach; the perfect place for some down time and a splash in the pool. By night, it was a short ride to Hoi An’s old town where we sat amongst the hustle of riverside bars, street food vendors and strings of colourful lanterns. By day, we cycled into the countryside, stopping at a local temple, thriving market and even taking a turn at operating the hand loom of a local mat-maker.

After relaxing on the beach, we took a short flight to Vietnam’s largest city, arriving just in time for afternoon tea in our central hotel. The rooftop pool was very impressive and had the most spectacular views of the city.

If you ask my kids about their highlight of Vietnam, I can guarantee it was the evening Vespa food tour. My fears about sticking the children on the back of a moped with someone they hadn’t met before and launching them into the rush-hour traffic proved completely unfounded.

The drivers were incredibly skilled and calm and made the driving part of the evening both exhilarating and relaxing at the same time. The tour took us to places we’d never have found, from hole-in-the-wall restaurants to live music venues.

Next it was time for a slower pace of life in the Mekong Delta, known as the ‘rice bowl’ of Vietnam. We sailed by boat down the river, stopping to sip rice wine and watch locals make popping rice and coconut candy using traditional methods. After lunch, a sampan navigated us down a peaceful waterway and we then cycled the final part of our journey to our homestay on the island of An Binh.

Our host family welcomed us with homemade juice as we rested in the hammocks surrounding the garden. Our rooms, though simple, were perfectly cosy. In the evening, we prepared our meal together which was a memorable experience for the whole family, as we gained a valuable insight into life on the Mekong.

Our trip had the perfect balance of planned activities and the freedom to explore independently. Having the hassle removed from planning our holiday was amazing and the whole experience has given my kids a new sense of confidence. I also feel much braver about venturing further afield with the family and can’t wait to visit our next destination…Peru!