A Homestay Experience on Cambodia’s Tonle Sap Lake

One day in April I was running the Brighton marathon, and the next I was en route via three flights to Siem Reap in Cambodia (with the muscle ache setting in making getting on and off the planes a real struggle)! On arrival I spent a relaxing day by the pool in Siem Reap before heading off to experience life on the Tonle Sap. Rickshaw’s resident Cambodia Travel Specialist Brittany had planned my trip and, knowing I’m a Meaningful Travel Warrior, she included the one night homestay there. For me meaningful travel is not only about giving something back to the communities we visit but also what we gain from it ourselves as travellers – extraordinary memories that last a lifetime and are great fun to share with our friends back home.

We travelled just over an hour north to Kampong Khleang, 45 km away. I felt lucky to have Mr So Hun as my guide, he spoke great English and his enthusiasm and passion was really infectious. He was keen to share his knowledge of the Tonle Sap lake which is actually the source of the famous Mekong river and apparently a vital ecosystem for more than 300 freshwater fish species (plus numerous turtles, snakes, reptiles – including crocodiles, storks and pelicans)! I stayed in a very basic house on stilts on the top floor with a family of seven spanning a few generations who slept below in their shop. Although it was April, (the hottest time of the year) the heat was manageable and being low season meant there were less tourists about and the village was dry. In wet season (August to October) the family told me they move up to the top floor as the lower levels become flooded due to the lake swelling to five times its size.

Hun took me for a wander along what would usually be wet waterways but for now were dry mud, and told me all about the lives of the residents of this small fishing community. Despite being the only tourist in the village no one was bothered about my presence which was quite refreshing. It was the Khmer New Year during my visit which meant there was no fishing going on as everyone was on holiday. For the elders of the village this included a soaking with talcum powder and cold water by the children with lots of laughter as well as feasting and loud music, fascinating to witness!

Later in the evening I was taken along the river by boat to the heart of the lake where the floating villages are located, with many Vietnamese inhabitants living off the lake. The fish caught here provide food for people all across Indochina, and apparently 60% of Cambodian’s protein intake. The sunset was truly unforgettable and my guide happily snapped away along with me!

After helping to cook a traditional Khmer meal with the family we were treated to duck bones to suck on, washed down with an bottomless supply of Angkor beer which was being kept cool with ice in a baby’s bath! Many passers-by came to sit with us, apparently all astounded to see a western lady drinking beer and all requesting I shout “jul muoy”, the Cambodian phrase for “cheers”. Traditionally it must be said before any person takes a sip and then everyone must also join in and swig together. Good in a way, but not in another as no one is left behind! It was such a communal spirit and I don’t think I’ll enjoy a beer quite in the same way again. My stay on the Tonle Sap was a real highlight of my trip to Cambodia and I can’t wait to go back one day.

Stay with a local family for the night on our Life on the Tonle Sap trip.